Everything that went wrong in Malta
Sometimes the best trips are the ones that don’t go according to plan
I’m writing this from a plane to Shanghai, which is wild because this is the first time I was genuinely afraid a trip might not happen. The global situation made everything feel uncertain, unstable, like maybe I was pushing my luck. But it worked out. That’s a story for another time, though.
This year I decided to stop avoiding places just because they’re “off season.” I wanted to embrace what that actually means: fewer people, decent weather, history you can breathe in without elbowing through crowds, and good food without reservations made three months in advance.
Visiting Malta in March felt like the right experiment. Spoiler alert: not everything went according to plan.
It was my mom’s birthday, and I wanted to give her a weekend where we could just be mother and daughter - no agenda, no pressure, just us.
I booked the flights, found a little Airbnb, and we went.
Thing that went wrong #1: the delayed flight + the full restaurant
Our first night started with a delayed flight. Not catastrophically delayed, but enough to make us panic about missing our dinner reservation. Except...I hadn’t actually made a reservation because I wasn’t expecting crowds. Trusting my off-season fortune, you know?
We Bolted (the cheaper alternative to Uber) straight from the airport to the restaurant, arrived breathless and hopeful, and... it was completely packed.
Classic.
But here’s the thing about travel mishaps: they force you into Plan B. And Plan B turned out to be this little restaurant nearby called Zizka. We arrived exhausted after climbing a steep hill, but the moment we walked in, I knew it was worth it.
If you take one thing from this entire Malta story, let it be this restaurant.
The atmosphere is cozy and familiar. The interior design is thoughtful - in that way that makes you want to stay. The portions are massive, but the food is outstanding. People greet each other like old friends even when they’re strangers. That’s how special this place is.
We had a feast. We got the house rosé (you’re welcome). We walked back to our apartment completely happy. Hands down, the best meal of the trip.
Thing that went wrong #2: the weather
Let me be clear: I knew Malta in March was a gamble. But I wasn’t prepared for just how windy it would be.
Sunny most of the time, yes...but windy. The kind of wind that makes you pull your jacket tighter. The kind that makes eating outside feel like a competitive sport.
But you know what? I’d take windy Malta in March over crowded Malta in August any day. We explored Valletta, Mdina, and Rabat without fighting through summer tourist hordes. We actually got to move at our own pace.
If you’re looking for a quieter Malta itinerary, this is the trade-off.
What we actually did (more or less)
Day 1: Valletta and the Three Cities
We spent the morning wandering Valletta - the centro, the church, those impossibly colorful doors everyone photographs, the views over the harbor…
In the afternoon, we visited the Three Cities. We found a spot to sit in the sun, people-watched, and eventually made our way to dinner at Tal- Petut - a restaurant with a menu so curated that everything comes from their own land.
The waiter was originally from Spain (if I’m not mistaken), but since my mother and I speak Portuguese, we started this beautiful conversation - a little in Portuguese, a little in Italian, all of it warm and genuine.
I had one of the best galletto of my life. The vegetables? 10/10. Simple, fresh, perfect.
Day 2: Mdina, Rabat, and the worst lunch ever
We had two goals: see Mdina and Rabat, and have lunch by the beach in Marsaxlokk.
Mdina and Rabat were...fine. Nice views, pleasant enough. But nothing truly special, if I’m being honest. One thing I do recommend though: take the bus. You’ll get a real sense of the landscape and the way everything opens up as you move.
And then came lunch.
Oh, lunch.
The most disappointing meal of the entire trip. The portions were huge, but the quality just...wasn’t there. I’m not even sharing the name of the place - maybe it was just a bad day, or we ordered the wrong things. But we had high expectations (beach! fresh fish! mediterranean dream!), so the disappointment hit harder.
The alternative had been going to Diar il-Bniet to eat the famous Maltese rabbit, but my mom wasn’t into it.
We’re both sea women.
We never miss an opportunity to be near the water.
Even when the water comes with mediocre food, apparently.
Thing that went wrong #3: my expectations
Here’s the honest truth: I didn’t love Malta as much as I hoped I would.
Maybe I’m spoiled. I live in Italy, where every corner overflows with art and beauty and centuries of history. But Mdina felt...manufactured. Like a movie set more than a living city.
The exception? St. John’s Co-Cathedral in Valletta. Entry is €15 (buy the ticket beforehand to avoid the line), and it’s absolutely worth it. The beauty, the grandeur, the way light filters through - it’s magnificent. If you’re wondering what to see in Valletta, this should be at the top of your list.
But overall, Malta didn’t capture me the way other places have.
And that’s okay.
Where I didn’t eat (but should have)
If there’s one thing Malta does exceptionally well, it’s restaurants that feel deeply rooted in the island itself. Places where the food comes with history, stories, loud tables, and recipes that probably survived several grandmothers. These were some of the spots my host suggested - ones I’ll try next time (if there is a next time):
Ta’ Nenu Valletta - We tried to have lunch here, but it was completely packed (at this point, I wasn’t surprised. Not anymore). Warm stone walls, old bakery vibes, traditional Maltese food like rabbit and ftira. Touristy but still incredibly local.
Legligin Restaurant - For a long, slow dinner. Tasting-menu experience with small plates that keep arriving: Maltese flavors, Mediterranean influences, local wine. Intimate and lively.
Rubino - Old-school Valletta. Originally a confectionery, now a local institution with white tablecloths, classic service, and Maltese-Mediterranean comfort food that’s survived decades.
Guzé - Hidden in a historic townhouse. Traditional Maltese ingredients with a refined, contemporary touch. Romantic without trying too hard, sophisticated without being intimidating.
Noni - Malta’s modern culinary side: polished, thoughtful, quietly ambitious. Fine dining that still feels grounded and welcoming.
Sciacca Grill - For meat lovers. Full stop. Giant cuts of beef, seafood displays, charcoal grills, dramatic plates. Indulgent, loud, slightly over-the-top, and very fun.
What this trip was really about
Here’s what I realized: this trip wasn’t about Malta being perfect. It wasn’t about ticking off landmarks or eating at the “right” restaurants or having Instagram-worthy weather.
This was about slowing down. About spending quality time with my mom. About following the vibes... and the weather. The OMG-so-windy weather.
We took it slow. We let the days unfold. We ate when we were hungry, rested when we were tired, wandered when we felt like it. When things went wrong, we laughed. When things went right, we savored them.
And because of that, Malta will always hold a special place in my memory. Not because the island swept me off my feet...but because the time I spent there with my mom did.
Will I go back? Probably not.
See you next time, halfway packed.
And thank you... as always... for being here, for reading, for letting these stories keep you company wherever you are.
I actually loved Mdina. I thought it was lovely for such a tiny place.
Food was hit and miss but I didn't have any fancy meals. And I never saw the cathedral. But I went to a festival that was pure magic.
Glad you had a good time even if you didn't love it. We spent two months there when we first started traveling, so it was a bit of a baptism for us!