I learned how to slow down on Ilha do Sal

A slow stay in Ilha do Sal. Where I stayed in Santa Maria, what I ate, and what I’d do again.

Last week I watched a documentary about Cabo Verde, the archipelago off the coast of West Africa.

I’ve been there before. Island of Salt. Ilha do Sal. Sorry…the Portuguese side of me insists on saying it properly.

The moment the documentary started, I could hear the waves. I could feel my feet in the sand. The shade of a huge umbrella. A caipirinha in my left hand. This song playing in the background like it had been written just for that week.

That’s how vacation memories work, I think. They’re not logical. They’re sensory. A mix of sounds, smells, textures strong enough to bring everything back the second you hear a familiar note.

This is an ode to the vacation where I finally learned how to slow down.

Ilha do Sal, Cabo Verde

Ilha do Sal isn’t a secret island. Most Europeans know it for its beaches and for sports like kitesurfing and windsurfing. It’s one of the easiest Cabo Verde islands to reach, which makes it accessible…and popular.

But it’s more than beaches.

There’s a rhythm to life there. A “no stress” energy. You feel it almost immediately.

Most people stay in Santa Maria, the island’s main town, and honestly…I think that’s the right choice. Imagine sandy streets, colorful houses, bars and restaurants everywhere, and then this huge stretch of beach just steps away.

If you’re wondering where to stay in Ilha do Sal, Santa Maria gives you that balance between relaxation and movement.

A day in my life on Ilha do Sal

Not a list. Just a day.

We stayed at Ocean Suites, where each room is dedicated to a Cape Verdean artist. The hotel has a bar that becomes a sort of gathering point at night.

One thing to know though. The service is excellent and the rooms are clean… but you will hear the noise from downstairs. It wasn’t a big deal for us. But it’s worth knowing before you book.

First things first. Breakfast. Local breakfast. Café Criolo.

We went where the locals go and ate what they eat. Cachupa. The national dish of Cabo Verde. A slow-cooked stew of corn, beans, vegetables, sometimes fish or meat. Hearty. Humble. Comforting.

If that’s not your vibe, don’t worry. You’ll also find yogurt bowls, fresh fruit, toast, coffee, tea. The place isn’t fancy, but the prices are fair compared to other tourist spots in Santa Maria, and the food is simple and good.

Then straight to the beach.

This is the mood. The pier. The waves. The absolutely ridiculous color of the water.

I’m not a beach club girl. We brought sunscreen, towels, water… and just stayed. Relaxed. Watched the waves. Walked along the shore. Took too many photos. People watched.

When the sun got high and we needed something cold, we went to Beach Bar Ola Brasil.

This? This was actually the vibe. I still can feel my feet in the sand.

A simple beach bar, run by a Brazilian if I remember correctly, serving the best caipirinha I’ve ever had.

That moment… sitting there with my drink, salty hair, sun on my shoulders… that was my favorite part of the day.

They also serve quick sandwiches if you need something light.

After sun and drinks, it’s shower time. And then dinner.

Before I leave the restaurant names, you need to know what to eat in Cabo Verde.

For me, lagosta suada forever. Is lobster cooked slowly in a rich tomato, onion, garlic, and pepper sauce. It’s not fancy. It’s not plated like fine dining. It’s generous, saucy, messy in the best way. You eat it with bread. You take your time. You talk in between bites.

The only photo of lagosta suada I have!

We also had fresh fish. Simple. Perfect. Grilled and seasoned with almost nothing because it doesn’t need anything else.

For lagosta suada, go to Barracuda.

And if you’re craving meat in a truly homey environment, Santa Grelha.

After dinner, it’s time to stroll. Santa Maria is small and walkable, full of little bars. A couple of drinks here, some music there… and of course, if you’re staying at Ocean Cafe, you’ll probably end up back at their bar anyway.

What to do in Ilha do Sal (if you don’t want to just beach)

If you don’t want to spend your entire trip on the beach, there are day trips worth doing.

You can visit the Salinas and float in the salt lakes. Play with mirage illusions in the desert. Explore the caves at Buracona and watch the “Blue Eye” phenomenon. Swim in natural pools. Depending on the season, you can also see sea turtles laying eggs or go dolphin and whale watching.

We did a turtle experience once. It was magical…but also overwhelming. Too many tourists. Too many phones. I promised myself that if I ever do it again, I’ll choose more carefully.

The kind of island that stays with you

On our last day, our taxi driver accepted to be paid on the return trip (we changed hotels and where further from the center because…our flight was cancelled) because we didn’t have enough cash. He trusted us. We came back. We paid him.

And the sunsets. They just hit differently in Cabo Verde.

See? Sunsets are unreal!

A few random things

I bought a handmade doll as a souvenir. I prayed it would survive the journey home. It did.

Book your activities on site. You’ll almost always pay less than booking online in advance.

And because I promised the good, the bad, and the ugly…I had the worst period cramps of my life during this trip. One full day in bed. Sweating. Crying.

We also had a flight to Boa Vista, another island, with a local carrier that was… cancelled.

And there was another layer to the island that stayed with me.

Ilha do Sal has a reputation for sexual tourism, and at times you could sense it. Older European women with very young Cape Verdean men. It wasn’t something hidden in the background. It was simply there.

I don’t know their stories. I don’t know their arrangements. But travel isn’t only sunsets and seafood. Sometimes it’s noticing the dynamics that sit quietly under the surface.

Vacations are not what you see on social media. Things happen. Bodies happen. Flights get cancelled. Complex realities exist.

And still… it was one of the trips that taught me the most about slowing down.

Not because everything was easy, but because I stopped trying to make it perfect. I stayed when plans changed. I rested when my body forced me to. I let the island be what it was. That’s what slowing down looked like.

Thanks for following along. Truly.I’ll see you next week. Always halfway packed.

P.S. This trip was in 2017, so I know things may have changed since then. If you go, please let me know how it feels now. Some places weren’t open at the time, but I’ve only included the ones I’m confident about.