Marrakech, the second time
A few thoughts before the practical version
If you read my previous post, you probably already knew Marrakech was coming.
It was only a matter of time.
My first time in Marrakech was back when Instagram was just a place to post cute photos for your friends. No hype, no saved places, no “you have to go here.” Things felt… simpler.
It was also the first time my husband ever set foot in Africa. And watching him experience it was honestly one of the best parts. He noticed everything I don’t really notice anymore: the chaotic traffic (him holding on for dear life in a taxi on the way to the Yves Saint Laurent Museum is one of the most hilarious memories of my life), people trying to sell you literally anything, the warm, spiced food, the sunsets.
Yes. Sunsets in Africa really do hit differently. I don’t know why. They just do.
I’d love to show you more photos from that first trip. I really would.
Unfortunately, the 2016 Marrakech photos are gone.
We didn’t lose them. My husband did.
So you’ll have to trust my memory. Or my tone.
Coming back
This year I went back to Marrakech for the second time.
I had way less time and honestly, no desire to do the tourist things again. So I didn’t. I just ate, walked around the Medina, and drank an embarrassing amount of mint tea (with a recipe that only works there and absolutely nowhere else…trust me).
Marrakesh has changed. A lot.
It feels more Instagram now. More curated. More…expected. People don’t really haggle like before, they just buy whatever they see. Prices are higher. A lot of shops sell the same things. You know the ones - the things you’ve already seen all over your feed.
Some places feel less simple than they used to. Less homey. More styled. More “designed.”
That doesn’t mean it’s bad. Morocco invested heavily in tourism, and that matters. But yeah - some things were lost along the way.
Where we slept
We’re not the kind of travelers who spend much time in the hotel because we’re out all day. But we’re also getting older, and next time we’ll probably spend a bit more coins on where we sleep.
If you’re going to Marrakech, I still think staying in a riad in the Medina makes sense. Everything is close, and you actually feel inside the city.
Two things to know:
Riads usually have very narrow stairs.
You will hear your neighbors. All of them. Yes, I’m talking about the American couple who arrived at 3 a.m. and woke up half the place.
Breakfast was great, though. So it evens out.
Do a few things early
There are some things people expect you to see - the Madrassa, the El Bahia palace, the Yves Saint Laurent Museum. They’re worth it, go early. Morning Marrakech is quieter. It feels different. That’s all I’ll say for now.
The Souk
Then it’s time for the real part. Get lost. Please. Walk without a plan. Turn where you’re not sure you should. That’s still where Marrakech works.
My souvenirs are almost always spices. They’re cheap, good, and easy to throw into a carry-on. We also bought a pair of babouches. At some point, sit down for mint tea.
If you have more time
A few things I’d add:
A proper hammam. With a massage. Couples, friends, whatever.
A lunch spot that somehow survived the tourist wave, where locals still eat and the tajine is… a lot. I’ll drop the names in the next issue.
That’s it for now. This isn’t a guide. It’s just how Marrakech felt to me, this time.
Thanks for being here and wandering with me. More next monday, as always Halfway Packed.