Marrakech, this time with a map
If you’ve read part I, you already know how Marrakech made me feel. This is the practical part.
Not a definitive guide, not a checklist - just the places and moments that shaped my two trips: where I slept, where I lingered...think of this as notes shared across a riad table, mint tea in hand.
Some of these spots are well-known now. Some are quieter. What matters more than ticking them off is how you move through Marrakesh - slowly, respectfully, and with room to be surprised.
SLEEP
The first trip, we stayed at Riad l’Heure d’Eté. The food was so absurdly good that we (almost) abandoned all plans to explore different restaurants. Most nights it was only us, candlelight, one incredible dish after another.
Second time around: Riad Chez Henriette. Beautiful, warm, impeccably hosted. But I’ll be honest - the first riad had more space, more of that feeling like we’d slipped into someone’s private world. Both are worth it, though. Just know that riads aren’t hotels…they’re intimate, wonderfully imperfect, and always alive with personality.
WHAT PULLED ME IN
Palais de la Bahia for stunning tilework, sprawling courtyards, the kind of beauty that makes you walk slower. Get there early if you can stand it.
Tombeaux Saadiens is quieter, older, and smaller. There’s something humbling about standing among centuries of history compressed into such a peaceful space.
Jardin Majorelle is now everyone’s postcard. Yes, it’s crowded. Yes, you’ve seen it on Instagram. But the cobalt blue against the desert light? Still worth it. Go at the opening if you want it to yourself.
Medersa Ben Youssef might be my favorite place in the entire city. The carved wood, the geometric perfection of the tiles, the courtyard that seems to hold silence like a secret. I sat there longer than I needed to. I didn’t want to leave.
Obviously, Jemaa el-Fna and the souks. The main square at sunset is chaos in the best possible way - smoke rising from grills, people coming trying to sell you anything, the call to prayer layering over everything. You can’t control it. You just move through it.
Maison de la Photographie was a quiet gift. Old images of Morocco, a rooftop with views, a moment to catch your breath and think.
Jardin Secret was another hidden garden tucked into the medina. If you need to escape the noise for an hour, this is where you go.
WHERE I ATE
Café des Épices sits right in the thick of the souq. It’s touristy now, sure. But sometimes you just need to sit above the chaos with mint tea and watch the world spin below you. It still works.
Al Baraka is where our first riad sent us. Full disclosure: it’s got the belly dancing, the explained dishes, the group energy. It’s tourist-friendly. But back when we went, it felt special. Manage expectations accordingly.
Le Trou Au Mur gave us sunset, exceptional service, and so much food we could barely move afterward. The rooftop is magic, but even inside, the design makes you want to stay. Book ahead online.
DADA Marrakech - I never made it, which haunts me a little. It kept appearing in recommendations as creative, vibrant, full of energy. If you go, please report back.
THE HAMMAM (please, just do it)
The only name I give to everyone I know: Hammam de la Rose. I did the hammam and then added a massage.
If you take one piece of advice from this entire guide, let it be this: do the hammam.
You will be scrubbed, steamed, softened, and reborn. I walked out feeling like a completely different version of myself. Book it. You’ll thank me.
SHOPPING BEYOND THE SOUQ
The souks are an experience…and yes, you should wander them. But if you want to shop with intention and directly support artisans, head to Ensemble Artisanal.
It’s the artisan center, a bit outside the old medina, so stop by on your way back from Jardin Majorelle. You’ll find leather, textiles, ceramics, metalwork - all made locally, usually fairly priced, with way less pressure than the souks.
THINGS I’D TELL YOU IF WE WERE SITTING IN A RIAD COURTYARD
Don’t rush Marrakesh. It’s not a place you tick off - it’s a place that seeps into you slowly, through the light, the sounds, the food, the conversations with strangers who become guides.
Dress with respect. Shoulders and knees covered, especially in the medina and religious sites. It’s not restrictive, it’s just being a good guest.
Haggle, but do it kindly. This is how commerce works, but remember: you’re negotiating with someone’s livelihood, not playing a game.
Put your phone away more than you think you need to. The souks smell like leather and spices. The call to prayer sounds different depending on where you’re standing. The light at sunset turns everything gold. These are things you feel, not photograph.
Be aware, but don’t be paranoid. Keep your bag close in crowded areas, don’t flash valuables, stay present. Marrakesh isn’t dangerous, it’s just intensely alive.
And most importantly: remember you’re a guest. Not a conqueror, not a collector, not a critic. A guest. That changes everything.
See you next week, halfway packed.
And thank you - for reading, for being here, for letting these stories travel with you.